Rutland is the smallest county in the UK and the best way to find it on the map is to locate the big horseshoe shape body of water right in its centre in-between Leicester and Peterborough. Yet there are no cities within its borders, only postcard perfect villages and the market town of Oakham. Even Stamford, a very pretty bustling town sits outside the county but also worth a visit.
The most popular hike in the area is the circular walk and cycle route around Rutland water. You can choose the 15.1 miles (24.3km) route which does the circumference but skips out on the Hamelton peninsula or complete the whole 8 hour hike and see it from every angle.
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Is It Worth Hiking The Full 22.1 mile Rutland Water Route
Absolutely the full route including the Hamelton peninsula is worth it. The vast majority of the route you can see the water, and the areas where you can’t take you through chocolate box cottages and bluebell woodlands so pretty in their own right.
If you start at Normanton Church the anticlockwise route seems to be the most common way to complete it. This starts you off at a paid car park with cafe and toilets and a short walk to see the church which juts out into the water. This church was actually below the waterline and thanks for community support they were able to reassemble the church saving it from the being flooded in the creation of the reservoir. Due to the beautify and accessibility of this section it can be quite busy with cyclists (as it is a cycle trail too) and families but you are rewarded with an excellent tarmac path right up to the dam.
The dam is impressive and offers a unique view up the lake although beware that the prevailing wind can make this part quite exposed if it’s windy. The views the other side you can see down the grassy slopes more lovely villages and churches.
Once across you reach another popular destination with more car parks which you have to walk through but with a more kiosk style cafe and here is the only area you are allowed to swim in the reservoir. You continue to walk through the car park which is right on the waters edge and around to the waterpark. This waterpark there is an inflatable obstacle course and you can hire kayaks and SUPs here which is lovely on a warm summers day.
I personally prefer this cafe. The cafe by Normanton church is unparalleled for views over the water but this one I feel has a nicer vibe to it and seems to be less busy especially as it is the start and end of the park run!
The walk gets a lot less busy from here on out and is one of my preferred sections. You loose the tarmac path and head onto a wide but sometimes muddy in places woodland path. This area is also a good section for the blanket of bluebells if you time it right.
You continue walking through this woodland until you hit the first big hill of the day. This is probably the biggest one of the trail, it’s steep and it does go on for a far bit and is on an access road to the car park. I have never found it super busy as the car park isn’t near any major attractions.
Once your past Barnsdale the walk does become a bit tedious for a while as although the wetlands and water are beautiful you walk right alongside the busy A606 for several kilometres. You only turn off at the Hamelton peninsula junction.
This is the only real choice you will make on this route. Whether to add 7 miles to explore the peninsular. If you didn’t think Rutland could get posher then you should head up to explore. This area is absolutely stunningly beautiful. The village is full of cottages but the best views of the water come from walking to its edge.
It’s also up another fairly short sharp hill but thats how you get such good views. Also a worthy stop for a lunch break. The Finch’s Arms is fancy pub which serves incredible local cuisine or simply enjoy the beer garden out back. There are also some places to stay here if you wanted to split your trip into two days or longer and explore Oakham. Only an hour walk from the Finches Arms or 5 minutes by car if you rather get a taxi.
The peninsular loop rejoins where you left off from the main route which then takes you on a loose gravel path a little way away from the waters edge but into Eagleton. I love this part of the hike because it is such a pretty village. You have another chance to make a stop for refreshments at the nature reserve but it is pay to enter and isn’t a cut through so for your hike you detour past here around the farm edge.
You will shortly arrive back to the A606 again but only for a very short time before climbing the hill up to Manton. This route takes you up and over a train line and past a lovely pub, The Horse and Jockey. You are never short of refreshments on this hike.
At the top of the hill there is a shared cycle and walk path along the road for a fair while. But this does take you past Rutland Nursery which has invested in rebranding itself and now has a dining area overlooking the water from its elevated position or for a light refreshment stop there is a lovely sun trap of a courtyard with a kiosk serving hot and cold drinks and snacks.
If that didn’t tickle your fancy you are immediately off the road and down a steep hill all the way back down to the water and Lyndon nature reserve. Like before they offer a small cafe and its pay to enter if you wish to explore further but from now on the path is alongside the water.
You pass through on a gravel and mud track with patches of woodland with water on one side and the golf course on the other. The path rolls up and down with the land but nothing is particular long or steep and personally is my preferred section of the walk. There is also a 12km circular from Normanton Church into the villages of North Luffenham and Lyndon which includes this section along the water and is perfect if you are here on a busy day or for a shorter route. The Rutland water circuit here is away from the bulk of the crowds but still lots of lovely views. You pass the geese and sometimes sheep here too.
You are now on the final stretch which twists and turns with the banks and rejoins a road shortly where a very regular ice cream van caters to the sailing club before the last little almost cove like turns. You are back into tarmac paths here with lots of benches if you want to rest for a while but you will only be 20 minutes or so out from reaching the car park and the waterside cafe.
This hike will take you the whole day but it is an easy hike. You can do it in some trainers, maybe take some waterproof shoes if it hasn’t been dry weather to avoid some of the puddles. It is still long and will take you a full day (approximately 8 hours) but then you have really explored the area so choose a good day, allow for plenty of breaks and enjoy.
Is It Worth Hiking The 15.1 Mile Rutland Water Route
I always think everywhere is worth hiking once and the route is exactly the same as what I have written above except you do not turn off to do the Hamleton peninsular. If you just plan to do the circuit then I would recommend cycling it (unless you hate cycling) because large chunks of this route are alongside main roads (the A606) and up my Manton. You may miss some smaller details but if you stop to appreciate the views and the wildlife often then I think you can prioritise the prettier places and speed past the rest.
The reason I suggest hiking the longer one is because the Hamelton peninsular is less suitable for bikes. The steep incline using the path is all large gravel making it hard to cycle or you can use the road which also gets busy. The pubs also do have such obvious bike racks again making it challenging but doable.
Also if you cycle the shorter route you can also include a day out in Oakham which is shared paths all the way in so really easy to do so and takes under 15mins for the detour. The terrain is excellent for walking but the path is a mix of tarmac, gravel and mud depending on where you are so a mountain bike is recommended. You can hire bikes near the waterpark.
Highlights of Rutland Water
Rutland Water is stunning from every angle but a few spots truly stand out. Even if you don’t hike the entire route there are shorter walks and routes available, as shown here (Anglian Water owns Rutland Water). Must-sees include:
Normanton Church
Visitor Centre (near Rutland Water Beach Car Park) and learn about the Rutland Sea Dragon
The Great Tower Statue (near Rutland Water Beach Car Park)
Bluebells in the woodlands (April-May)
Ospreys (March-September) with the best views from Lyndon Nature Reserve. Bring binoculars but volunteers sometimes have telescopes and you might even spot the chicks!
Hamelton Peninsular for picturesque countryside village charm
Should I Visit The Nature Reserves
The nature reserves are well worth a visit if you are into your woodland and wetland species. During Osprey season at Lyndon nature resereve volunteers in the hides often have a telescope so you can see osprey chicks in the nest and there parents swooping around. There sure also several bird hides to ensure you get the best view and in the woodland too.
The other nature reserve is at Eagleton and you can visit both although a trek to get between. The nature reserves also do not offer a through route if you are thinking of paying to get closer to the water along the way. They only other one way in and out so it’s worth visiting these on a separate day to your hike to make the most of it or cycle.
Is There A Ferry?
In the summer months Rutland water does have a water cruise call the Rutland Belle. It takes guests from Normanton Church over the Whitwell, near the waterpark and back again. Currently priced at £16 return for an adult which you can buy online or get a single if you want to walk part of the way. They also offer different event cruises (at time of writing) such as Osprey cruises and gin cruises if you fancy something a little different!
What Are The Food And Drink Options Along Route?
You wont go hungry that is for sure with several cafes and pubs along the route and that is not including the kiosk style cafes or ice cream trucks. The nature reserve offer the most limited choice but does offer coffee and sandwiches. Places to eat include:
Waterside Cafe (near Normanton Church)
The Harbour Cafe (Whitwell, near the waterpark)
The Finches Arms (Hamelton Peninsular)
The Anglian Water Bird Watching Centre (Eagleton)
Horse and Jockey Inn (Manton)
Rutland Nursery
Lyndon Visitor Centre and Nature Reserve
Where Can I Park To Do The Trip
There are several paid car parks around Rutland water. The route I have described above starts at a paid car park at Normanton Church, but you can choose several locations to start exploring. Other car parks include the Rutland water beach car park, Rutland water Whitwell car park, Barnsdale car park and at the two natures reserves.
Can I Get There By Public Transport
The closest train station to Rutland water is Oakham train station. From there it’s either an hour walk or a 15 minute cycle. If you’re travelling by bike this is perfectly achievable and has shared cycle paths all the way to the Rutland water circular.
Otherwise you do have a choice of some limited bus connections. So there is two possible routes you can take which is the R9 bus which runs almost hourly between Oakham and Stamford which will get you close to the northern waters edge stopping near Whitehall and Empingham village. This route however, only runs Monday to Friday and not on bank holidays. The other option which will run on Saturdays is booking the Callconnect bus and you can choose a suitable time and location with this bus through the app or by phone but the good times need to be booked in advance.
For most people the easiest option would be to book a taxi or Uber is also available in the area although with fewer cars than you may be used to so be prepared for a wait.
Should I Cycle The Route Instead
This route can be walked or cycled although there are some less pretty bits close to roads and away from the water and for these sections cycling is preferable as you can speed right past them. That being said, the gravel parts of the track are a bit bumpy if you’re not a keen biker but they are manageable.
If you want to include the Hamleton peninsular then I recommend walking, or at least this section and lock up your bikes somewhere. The little village and small paths make cycling harder and that is not including the short but sweet hill to get up. However, if you are short on time and want to explore Oakham perhaps then a bike is more your friend. Also when people are wizzing past on their bikes it can make the walk feel a little chaotic whereas it’s less noticeable when you cycle.
Tips To Make The Most Out Of Your Trip
As with most places arrive early. Car parks fill up and it’s quieter in the mornings, especially along the section of Normanton church across the Dam to Whithall. This is the most popular part and the best up-kept too so arrive early avoids the crowds. This also goes for where you can avoid weekends, bank holidays and school holidays where you can. It really isn’t a secret location.
The part of the lake with the dam can be really exposed so bring a jumper and wind proof layer and be sure to look down towards Empington. Your elevated position gives an overview of the churches and farmers fields. Other areas worth slowing down for are Barnsdale woods and the section between Lyndon nature reserve and Normanton. It’s quieter this section but still beautiful and full of wildlife.
Conclusion
The Rutland water circular is an excellent relaxing walk. It offers everything from cosy cafes to eat, chocolate box countryside cottages and amazing wildlife all in an easy to follow route. Whether you do the full hit or split it into smaller sections and spend some time enjoying getting on
