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The Himalaya range is humongous, with its 2400km range crossing five countries: India, China, Bhutan, Pakistan and of course the hiking central of Nepal. These mountains are actually four parallel mountain ranges. These are Sivalik hills, the lower Himalayan range, the great Himalayan range and the Tibetan Himalayas.

The Karakoram range which contains several 8000m peaks including K2 (the second tallest mountain on earth) is actually considered separate from the Himalayas even though it’s just north of them on the map.

But of course Nepal has the most mountains over 8000m including the mighty Mount Everest and the first peak over 8000m ever submitted: Annapurna. So as you can see there is so much to see in this country with quite possibly the most dramatic scenery on Earth.

Nepal has obviously been on my bucket list ever since I have known Mount Everest existed and I was lucky enough to hike the Annapurna Sanctuary route with Much Better Adventures which used Freedom Adventures as the local tour company. I have booked through MBA many times before and once again they did not disappoint.

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Why I Chose The Annapurna Sanctuary Route

I spent a lot of time debating over the many hiking trails in the Himalayas. I ruled out the Everest region purely because I wanted to include the Gokyo lakes and that simply did not have time to do that trek this time and if I was going to do Everest I felt I might as well do both in one trip. So that left me with a choice between the Annapurna Sanctuary Route and Annapurna Circuit. Ultimately I chose Annapurna Sanctuary Route as you can see why below.

Blooms In The Spring Season

There are two peak hiking seasons in Nepal- spring and autumn with the summer months being monsoon and of course winter is cold and harsh. Autumn gives the clearest weather, which is excellent for everlasting horizon views and spring is where the Rhododendron forests dress the mountains in there glorious pink capes.

I decided that Annapurna sanctuary at its lower elevation would mean a lot longer in the forests and therefore more flower power. I was not disappointed, we were either in full jungle or Rhododendron forest for all but the two days at Machapuchare base camp and Annapurna base camp.

Lots Of Tropical Wildlife

Like with any trip what wildlife you see is mostly down to luck but Annapurna Sanctuary Route would have given me a good change to see a wide range of species. Higher up on Annapurna circuit will be few animals but of those more specialist and unique such as the elusive snow leopard.

Variation Of Terrain

The Annapurna circuit may give rise to views over the magnificent massifs day after day but Annapurna Sanctuary lets you travel through the rice paddies outside Pokhara into subtropical jungle. As you climb this fades into the rhododendron forests before hitting bamboo forest. Once you clear the tree line as such you get the barren yet beautiful high altitude slopes. You still get some of this with the Annapurna circuit but you remain at a significantly higher altitude for much longer.

You Hike At A Lower Altitude

With both hikes you climb, climb and climb some more but with Annapurna Sanctuary the highest altitude reached is 4130m which is more than enough to feel the affects of altitude sickness and the circuit route is over a 1200m higher in elevation. If you are unsure of how altitude will affect you like I was (and it can change every time) then the sanctuary route gives you the best of both worlds of a taster but short enough that its easy to come back down if your body doesn’t agree! Also its a lot warmer in the lower elevations if you do feel the cold.

Annapurna Sanctuary Is A Shorter Hike

Hiking back to back day after day is challenging and shorter hikes can sometimes be more enjoyable than the longer ones for this reason, especially if you do not have rest days planned in. Circuit does have one rest day, not including travel days and Sanctuary does not have any but it does mean that it can fit into two weeks leave if your flights work out well.

So now you understand why I choose this route to do lets get onto the actual hike!

The Annapurna Sanctuary Route

Now the exciting bit as I give a run down of the exact hike I did with Much Better Adventures.

Day 1- Arrive In Kathmandu

The tour company is super organised and creates a WhatsApp group about a week prior to the trip. This is super useful for asking any questions you may have prior and you can now provide an electronic photograph for the permits which they sort out all for you. Once you arrive you will find your name on a piece of card in arrivals and you are whisked away right to the door of your hotel.

Depending on when you arrive the guides will suggest a meeting time to discuss the upcoming adventure. This is where they do the all important safety briefing and you sign a piece of paper stating that you are OK with the risk. The guides also go over a kit list and what they think you will need specifically using recent experience and weather forecasts.

Once everyone is happy they take you to convert some cash if you have not already done so. You are able to convert GBP, Euro and American dollars at many locations. Kathmandu literally has everything you could possible need to buy or hire for the trip too so fear not you will be able to get something and some are real otherwise they are good quality fakes and do the job. Hiking boots are the main thing you want to bring and take them in your hand luggage so there are no mishaps!

The last part of the evening was the included dinner meal. This consisted of wonderful dancers whilst many rounds of local cuisine was served, and yes there were momos (dumplings) and some rice wine to taste. Like everything seems to be in Kathmandu it was a lively experience that included a dancing yak.

We stayed in the Skye Inn Hotel in central Thamel which is where you want to stay especially if you plan on extending the trip as this is the tourist section and tours happily pick up from here. This hotel was lovely with comfortable beds, good breakfast options and it was on a pedestrianised side road with everything you could possibly need (few eateries, outdoor shops, money exchange and souvenir shops) in a more peaceful setting.

If you want to learn more about staying in Kathmandu then I have how I made the most of my day in the city in an article that you can read here.

Day 2- Pokhara

Admittedly I was dreading this day and there is an optional add on of taking a short flight instead of the 8 hours bus ride but actually glad I didn’t (although the lie in would have been appreciated!). The ride was not boring at all.

The bus was not just for us but was set up in a one seat one side, two seats the other side and the seats were huge. Way wider and with more legroom than a plane. We even got given a bottle of filtered water and stopped every few hours for coffee, bathroom breaks and lunch so it was never a huge issue although some bathrooms were nicer than others.

The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful throughout. We start off in the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, watching people go about their lives before climbing up some intense hills that surround the Kathmandu valley.

Day 3- Nayapul to Ulleri

Today starts off with a two hour drive up to the village where we start. The road does start to get a little bumpy along here but once you see the village you know you have arrived. The guide happily showed up the map of the trek we were going to undertake in all its daunting ways and then your off. Cross a road bridge and into the jungle.

The first section of this hike is on quiet roads although when vehicles so pass they do emit a lot of fumes, but fear not this is not for long before you hit trail. The trails here are all made of rock and they are not lying about today being a shock to the system. You will climb over 600m of elevation in one hit and it’s all steps.

You do take it slow and take lots of breaks but in the tropical heat and is a real taste of what’s to come but it’s all worth it. You pass through lots of cute villages for refreshments. Every day had a tea break or opt for a mango juice drink with an insane amount of sugar. Highlights of today included your first suspension bridge crossing and seeing water buffalo walk along the path.

You also can eat lunch on the route which is a super nice break although the guides advise something quite to order so that is usually a rice or noodle dish and dal bhat of course. It’s also recommended that you do not eat meat from now on in most instances just to ensure there is less risk of food poisoning.

You will arrive at the teahouse late afternoon and there is plenty of time to enjoy a brew, freshen up and relax before dinner. For dinners you can have whatever they offer on the menu (apart from the meat unless you want to risk it) and they are usually pretty good with lots of options.

Day 4- Ulleri to Ghorepani

Rise up with a hot Masala tea (a black tea mixed with chai style spices) and a hearty breakfast which you usually order the night before. This is the first day of normal routine with the placing of bags outside the room for the porters to race up the hillside with them.

There are no more roads on the trip from now on so the whole day is met with stone steps both up and down. Slopes are rarely a thing in Nepal. Everywhere is steep enough for steps. I visited in early April and initially I thought I had missed the Rhododendron blooms. The first few trees we spotted were a bit past there best and only a few odd ones, but as we continued to climb we were met with a wonderful display.

The hills and trail were blanketed in pinks and red and just continued to get even more impressive the further we hiked. Not only were there these flowers, but huge magnolia trees in full bloom with their peaceful white flowers. White orchids climbing on the tree trucks. The Himalayas were really pulling all the stops. We were even lucky enough to see Assam macaques playing in the magnolia trees.

This is also the first day you will get to see some snow covered peaks including Hiunchuli and Annapurna South. Not quite the 8000m peaks yet but still stunning mountains to be seeing above the pink hills.

The day today will feel relatively short compared to yesterday. It’s a shorter distance and less elevation gain than the previous day which is good news as Ghorepani is probably the largest village on this trip. There’s options to buy a bigger variety of snacks here (although everywhere will sell loo roll and snickers so fear not) and a few choices for souvenir shopping for the mountains. Do bear in mind that anything you will be carried for the remainder of the trip but you do not return here.

If you are lucky with the weather (we were hit with a hailstorm for a while when we got in) then explore the village as if you head up there are some excellent views. The mountaintops were hiding behind the clouds but even from our teahouse windows they are so big you have to go outside to see all of it!

This is the first location that our guide brought out a little form and pulse oximeter to ensure we were all feeling OK despite the altitude. It was also really interesting to know how our bodies were doing. From then on enjoy filling up on dinner and lemon, ginger honey (LGH) hot drinks before an early night for the bright and early start tomorrow!

Day 5- Poon Hill, Ghorepani to Chuile

The earliest start of the entire trip and probably the longest day too. Ensure you got your snacks the day before as you rise in the dark, head torches at the ready. The entire walk takes somewhere between an hour to an hour and a half depending on pace and how busy the trail is. You will reach the entry to the route with its neon signs where your guide will sort out the tickets for you.

Poon hill is a 3210m summit but from Ghoropani you are only climbing about 300m of pure steps so it could be worse. As you climb the darkness fades away and you start to see the colours of the rhododendron come into play. The shadows cast by several mountains including Annapurna 1 (despite being taller it looks shorter due to the effects of distance), Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre otherwise known as Fishtail Mountain.

Once you reach the top there is the classic summit sign post to get that obligatory selfie and even a tower to climb because you can never get enough steps in Nepal. It is worth going up although I found it really busy and better photographs were from the ground as you could capture good foreground interest with the prayer flags or flowering Rhododendron with the sunrise in the background.

Now is a good time for a snack as you see the first sunlight illuminate the slopes of the Annapurna Mountain ranges before making your way down with a lot of photo stops back to breakfast. We were very lucky with weather but our guides did promise us that even if it was overcast we would still go as it is good acclimatisation. Only rain would have prevented it.

Now all fuelled up it was onto the real hike and it was essentially climbing up the same elevation of Poon hill again on the other side of the valley. This is another spectacular walk as you rise again through the huge rhododendron you get another view of the snow capped peaks as the ground opens up into grasslands. Once again you go up to go down and you descend back into wonderful jungle. Keep an eye out for pitcher plants popping out from the moss and again and today was the day we saw yaks enjoying a river which carved us a magnificent gorge.

You will quickly find your evening routine. Ours was very much arrive, enjoy a tea, find our rooms, shower if you fancied it and then order early what you wanted for dinner. The dinner menu is usually identical for each teahouse but the prices do rise understandably with the elevation gain.

Evenings are a good time to do your washing too as you sit by the fire in the common rooms with socks hanging all around. Charge your phone or power bank where you can, some places do have a plug in your room but these are rare and be aware that you do pay for this service along with the WIFI.

Day 6- Chuile to Sinuwa

A very cultural day today with some spectacular views as to be expected. Follow the classic up a few hundred metres of steps and back down and you reach Chhomrong which is last permanent village of the valley. This place is huge for a Himalayan village with lots of choices and even a little souvenir shop but fear not you pass through here again on your way back from base camp.

You will pass Buddhist stupors and lots of mules as they bumble past you so make sure you are not on the steep edges when they pass! The village also has one of the best views so far on the trek, with steep V side valley forested in rich greens framing the snow dipped mountain peak beyond. You will also be able to see the destination village opposite and the route you must take down to the bottom and back up again. Good news though is that you may see more macaques and I saw lots of lizards basking in the sunlight.

It is important to note that after this you will be entering into Sanctuary valley. After this the teahouses are government run and there are strict rules on certain aspects to ensure that the valley remains protected.

This will be the last stop for anything other than the usual snacks and loo roll, it will also be the last time you can buy bottled water as single use bottles are banned. You will be able to buy filtered or boiled water but it is still recommended to treat the water as everything from here on in is carried by porter. No pack animals are allowed up into the valley, therefore there are limited supplies and you do not want to get sick by accident now. Better safe than sorry.

It is also worth noting that there is no fires in the common areas so the previous night was your best bet for washing and drying clothes but don’t worry your guide will tell you all of this.

Day 7- Sinuwa to Himalaya

Today you will be well into the swing of hiking in these mountains and heading into the heart of the sanctuary valley. Today we passed a beautiful Buddhist stupor positioned beside a dramatic waterfall. Not for its volume of water this time of year but the sheer scale of numerous water streams trickling over this wall that continued long below our feet into the gorge. We continued to spot monkeys in the trees and looked longingly into the snow capped mountains ahead.

Day 8- Himalaya to Machapuchare Base Camp

The days become relatively shorter as altitude limits the distance we can cover comfortably and the terrain today changes dramatically. Initially you are walking through lush jungle, then through to the more resilient rhododendron between a small layer of bamboo forest.

Apparently red pandas have been spotted in this area but these secretive animals sadly did not pay a visit for my time there and are more likely to be found in other quieter regions of the mountains. This is the day you also step out into barren rock. Nothing plant based survives this high. You will cross on short metal bridges over torrent of the river rushing down the valley and see statues of Buddha sheltering in caves. Demonstrating the importance of these locations for sheltering the porters of old and now. We were lucky that there was a dappling of snow up at base camp which added to the charm of the location.

Day 9- Machapuchare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp

The final push for ‘summit day’ of the hike. It is also the closest thing to a rest day. The pace is slow on purpose and we hiked 3.4km in just under an hour and a half. Overnight the landscape was transferred with a dusting of snow making the mountains shine in the sunshine which was much appreciated because it was cold.

Those of us using poles, even with layers struggled to keep our hands warm when the snow came in and I opted the fold up the poles to warm my hands up. We stopped at a small frozen lake and to my surprise small birds were still active up at these altitudes.

We started early despite the short distance and was glad we did. The snow started to come in for the final half an hour and by the time we checked in it was a full on blizzard outside. So much snow as falling that employees were shovelling snow to ensure there were paths between accommodation.

The rooms were cold most of us huddled in the common room either using the intermittent WIFI, reading or playing the one and only UNO. The room kept warm despite the snow and single glazing from the fumes from the kitchen and the number of people in the room. One of the teahouses on the Annapurna Base Camp suffered a fire recently and therefore everyone was crowding into the remaining teahouses.

The snow kept falling across the afternoon and to get anywhere was walking through knee deep snow but of course it was essential to get out and view the glacier. It is up a small embankment then drops into the glacial basin. Added to the monuments for those who have died climbing Annapurna and pray flags it is quite an emotional view.

Our guides were very much on hand to ensure we drank and ate to minimise the effects of altitude sickness. For myself I was suffering from a horrible cold so how much was that and how much was altitude sickness I will not know. We all headed off to bed really early, and despite the cold weather we were told to keep the window open a crack to help with the breathing. We didn’t and should have.

Some of our group were feeling the effects of being 4130m above sea level. Some were sick during the night, as for myself I kept waking up feeling like my sleeping bag was suffocating me. My watch telling me that my heart rate was 120 beats per minute asleep which was not great. A few deep breaths fixed it. Sort of.

Day 10- Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo

In the morning we were greeted by a clear skies and a sunrise to remember. The sky was beautiful and the sun illuminated the tips of the magnificent mountains.

After an attempt at breakfast which most of use struggled to eat we headed on down. We were lucky that we were not snowed in and the passage wasn’t closed due to avalanches. We could hear them frequently the night before and the evidence on the trail was real. We even saw a small one happen as we made the most of our crampons to get down the valley.

Today was a long one distance wise but it did not feel it. The sun kept us warm up high and the snow blanketed everything making the views so different from the night before. We watched helicopters come and go, some of them flying super low.

We retraced our steps all the way to a tea break at Deurali which after a lemon, ginger and honey tea and a snickers I felt amazing. It is amazing how the drop in elevation gave my body more oxygen and the euphoria that followed a bit of sugar. It was the best I felt the entire trip.

Yet we had a long way to go, all the way to Bamboo. Despite retracing steps and being very aware of the distance and elevations we would have to climb, the day went fast and we made good time. The views the other direction may not have been as dramatic but you still have beautiful valleys and mountains all around all from a new perspective.

Day 11- Bamboo to Jhinu Danda

Off onto an another new trail today after a bit more backtracking of the trail. This was also the only day where it rained continuously on us as we hiked. It proved that many of our waterproof coats were not quite as waterproof as advertised but we made it. It was actaully quite atmospheric in the rain. The clouds danced in the valleys and when we did reach the teahouse it had eased up and swallows were showing off their aerial acrobatics.

The good news for us is that after a short break we headed 1km downhill to the hot springs. A must for our tired aching muscles. It sits alongside a roaring river with three separate pools. The top one was the coolest but still hot.

My advice is definitely bring a drink as I found myself really dehydrated with the heat and the hiking. With mellow legs getting up the steps back to the teahouse was a major effort not to be underestimated. As we are back close to roads again this teahouse had a huge range of options of what to eat, not that the options had been limited previously.

Day 12- Jhinu Danda to Naya Pul

The final day in the mountains. Everything felt it and the pace was a little more meaningful today. Of course, it was mostly down and everyone was taking in the final jungle views and eventually we left the stone paths and long bridges for road again like we did in day one.

Before long our bus was here to pick us up and we drove over the bridge that started it all. We headed by bus all the way back to Pokhara where we had some downtime to get a good hot shower and pick up some clean clothes. We dealt with the tips and handed back any gear we borrowed from here, namely sleeping bags and headed into town to explore and buy some souvenirs.

Dinner was included tonight at the restaurant which included desert and we were treated with some lively traditional dancing whilst we ate.

Day 13- Pokhara to Kathmandu

Officially time to say goodbye to the mountains although after some of the best nights sleep of the entire trip. Today you either have the choice to fly back to Kathmandu which allows for a lie in or get the bus which I did. The journey is long but with plenty of breaks it isn’t bad and let’s face it most of us were exhausted. We stayed in the same hotel as before and we all got together to have a final meal together. Admittedly in a very good pizza place, after weeks on the trail we were a little riced out.

Day 14- Kathmandu

So today is officially the last day of the tour and you get your transfer back to the airport and say goodbye, but a few of us chose to extend our trip this end rather than before. I chose to have an extra day in Kathmandu which was amazing and highly worth visiting albeit I wished I allowed more time to see the city.

I crammed a lot in with one of the 7 UNESCO site tours and many of these places you could easily spend at least half a day exploring and mixed in with the hiking fatigue it was an worthwhile effort. If that is your plan spend a few days prior or give yourself a days rest before exploring either in Kathmandu or Pokhara to fully appreciate the city.

This trip is definitely one of the most eye opening trips I have done to date and I would happily jump back on a plane tomorrow to do the other hikes in the Himalayas and spend more time exploring Kathmandu in depth.

Now you know the story of the hike I will offer some tips and tricks for making the most of the trip. On the whole the guides on my tour the week prior were excellent at answering any and all questions and there answers were spot on.

Tips For Nepalese Immigration

For most people you will need a visa to enter Nepal and you should check your specific entry requirements and some countries require proof of certain vaccinations so check with your travel doctor too.

For most people visiting you need to apply for a visa upon arrival. This is done online and links can be found on the UK governments travel advice website and you fill out your details. You can now also choose to pay prior too. Just make sure that you print out your acceptance of visa document and proof of payment before you fly. This means that you can walk straight up to the border control and hand them all this and your passport and skip a lot of the queues.

Alternatively you can apply upon arrival with the booths in arrivals but this means queueing up in at least two queues. One to complete the visa documentation then a seperate one to pay (you will also need to do this if you didn’t pay online). There is also the option to exchange money here too as the card payment is seen as unreliable. Most major currencies are accepted in most places and can be exchanged such as dollars, euros and pounds.

What Are The Teahouses Like?

There is a fair amount of variation between the teahouses with some offering en-suite rooms albeit cold showers in some and others having shared bathrooms. The latter is more common. The rooms are often basic housing anywhere from two to four beds in my experience but can be more.

They offer a mattress and usually a duvet to help keep you warm as there is no heating in the rooms and they are single glazed. If you do find yourself with a plug in your room it is a luxury but they are comfortable and reasonably clean.

Expect there to be gaps in doors, spiders hiding in the cracks and mismatched bedding and curtains and you will appreciate the cosy charm. You also pay for hot showers (as most are gas showers make sure to open a window as carbon monoxide can build up), WIFI if you choose to use it and to charge your phone/ other devices.

Every one will have a dining hall/common room where everyone gathers and unless a protected area they will have the fire going so is the warmest place of the teahouse. Don’t be surprised if people are drinking tea whilst socks are hanging up drying. The menus are similar across the entire route although some items may be sold out.

How Much Money Should I Bring

Apart from a few upmarket shops and restaurants in Kathmandu everywhere in Nepal is cash only. Which means you need Nepalese Rupees. This can be quite confusing in our increasingly cashless society and on the mountains you need two weeks worth of cash on you as there is no cash points.

What also complicates things is the exchange rates and that higher up the mountain prices increase due to the difficulty of getting supplies to the region. The best way to deal with this is to bring your own currency (if it’s a major one like euros, dollars or British pounds) with you to exchange once you are there. This is due to cash machines being unreliable and have withdrawal limits below what you will need.

I visited in 2026 and you should always listen to your guide for the amount you should bring but I budgeted about 4000 rupees a day for one person. Most days I was under 3000 but I aired on the side of caution. This was for my tour where porters, guides, permits and accommodation was already paid for. Remember you will be paying for hot showers, WiFi, electricity for charging and all food and drink unless it is the water you treat from taps.

Prices for example would be dhal baht 800-1000 rupees and masala tea 150-300 rupees depending on where you are. The bananas which were lovely from sellers along the route would cost around 100 rupees and other snacks like mars bars would be 200-400 rupees.

This region is relatively low for the Himalayas and is becoming more and more accessible by road which keeps prices down as it does not have to be carried by porter. Other regions prices would be much higher.

Tipping is also appreciated so when you work out your bill in the morning it is always worth rounding up. As for the tour, much better adventures advised on tipping $115 per person although it is up to you but it is shared among the guide and porters and a little bit extra generosity goes a long way in Nepal for their families.

A final note is that if you plan to exchange money back into your home currency then you need to keep hold of a receipt. The ones in town are always a fussy and wont necessarily give you a receipt unless you ask for it and unless you have one then you will not be able to exchange currency at the airport.

As Nepalese rupees are a closed currency you will not get it outside Nepal and it is illegal to export it. If you have any money left over and cannot exchange it back you can tip the people working in the shop and cafeteria at airport. Otherwise you are left with some very pretty paper!

What Is The Food Like?

The food is excellent and home made. You could have Dhal Bhat every night and it will differ from tea house to tea house. This staple meal is rice surrounded by vegetables and a lentil soup to potatoes of some variety. Each place puts its own unique spin on this traditional dish. Also this is one of the most filling dishes and they often come and give you seconds!

Otherwise they cover all sorts of cuisine from rice to noodles and even pizza was an option all the way up at Annapurna Base Camp although a bit sweeter than you are likely used to. The food is pretty good and always listen to other hikers and guides recommendations. Many people opt to avoid meat outside the big cities and this is a good choice to avoid food poisoning as you have no idea how that meat has been stored.

What Do I Do For Drinking Water?

The tap water in Nepal is not drinkable for most people and will result in getting sick. This includes brushing your teeth and avoiding getting water in your mouth when you shower.

To combat this there are several options you can do and most people double up on options to be extra safe. I chose to treat water with chlorine dioxide tablets (the taste is better and they are more effective than normal chlorine tablets) and use a filter to be extra safe.

The filter I chose and many others also chose to use this was the LifeStraw Go Series. You can get this bottle in a range of colours and even in metal options for a sleek look. Personally I chose the plastic option to save weight and so I was able to see how much water was left. The plastic is BPA free and really sturdy and safe to say it survived the trek.

The LifeStraw company is B certified which means they strive to be a responsible company and this also means that you can use the bottle without a straw should you choose or replace the filters as and when you need.

A quick tip for using this system is that although it does not leak, sometimes water fills up into the straw and can come out of the bottle once the lid is off so do not open near anything you want to keep dry. I still am unsure if it’s because the bottle was on a slant or changes in temperature or air pressure were to blame. This is rarely an issue when opened frequently.

Also the filter can become damaged with ice build up or hot water so although your bottle will likely stand being a hot water bottle wait till it cools before adding your filters and in cold weather pop the bottle in the bottom of your sleeping bag to keep it ice free.

There are other options too such as using a Steripen which uses UV to kill any nasties in your drinking water and is rechargeable so no need for replacement filters for clean water, however, like tablets it requires clear water. Anything that is shaded by dirt or debris would be properly sterilised but it is an excellent alternative to tablets and can be used in conjunction with filter systems effectively.

Lastly you can buy suitable water from the tea houses along your route. Initially from plastic bottles where the water has been filters and later through filtered or boiled water. Always bring a water bottle to fill up as sanctuary valley does not allow the sale of disposable bottles to help the environment and many of these bottles are simply left or burnt in the area.

How Do I Stay Connected To Home- WIFI or Data

The trip is so amazing you are bound to want to send photos back home. The data roaming for Nepal is steep so you will need to turn off data roaming. You can still stay connected by using a local sim.

You can easily collect a sim at the airport or in town although they only accept cash and the minimum exchange is around 50 although they may accept other currencies at the kiosk. You choose your plan and provide your passport and they will sort the rest for you.

You want to choose Nepal Telecom (NTC) and not NCELL. Using NTC I got reasonable signal at nearly every teahouse. There was even good enough to WhatApps call at places. Otherwise you may choose to get WIFI. There is a charge for this which varies between location although it is usually several hundred rupees for the night. It will not be super fast and can cut out depending on all sorts of factors but will keep you in the loop.

What Do I Do With Luggage?

Packing for an expedition like this can be complicated and add in your nice city clothes too and you have bags of stuff. The hotels we stayed in both in Kathmandu and Pokhora allowed you to store excess luggage there for the duration of your trip. I highly recommend you leave a full clean set of clothes behind to change into at Pokhora when you get back!

As for what you take on your trip the porters require a soft back such as duffle or backpack and may refuse to carry the suitcase come duffle bag type bags should it be deemed too difficult. Also remember they are carrying these on their backs using their heads. Be considerate and pack light. The recommendation is less than 12kg.

I would also recommend buying a duffle bag there or taking one that you do not care a lot about. Firstly because they will be exposed to all the wind, rain and dirt and secondly backpacks do not smell good after hours of sweating and the porters work hard! You dont really want something absorbent in that heat. Two weeks of sweat and grime smells revolting. Take something wipeable or buy or rent there and you’re good.

What Is The Hygiene Situation Like?

Every place we stayed ant offered some sort of shower. Sometimes cold, sometimes hot was more lukewarm but we did have one amazing shower at one of our teahouses. The important point is that washing really wasn’t an issue lower down the slopes.

At the base camps they did have solar showers which we suspected were not working so well in the blizzard so many opted for the wet wipes that day. Not to mention getting wet and cold in the snow wasn’t so appealing.

Before sanctuary valley every teahouse had a stove fire at the heart of the common area/dining hall so if you needed to wash some items such as socks then a hand wash in the sink followed by hanging around the fire did the job.

Final point is the toilets. I was surprised that many places did have an option of a western toilet but not always. The common toilet experience is the squat toilet which takes some getting used. There is a bucket of water to flush and a bucket to put the remaining toilet paper in. Many of the plumbing situations in Nepal cannot handle loo roll being flushed so be sure to use the bin.

I found a combination of biodegradable wet wipes and tissue worked well for rationing the loo roll that is not provided. You can buy it in the teahouses though. Also soap is not provided and hand gel does not kill Norovirus so make sure to bring some soap to wash your hands properly so you don’t get a dodgy tummy.

Conclusion

Nepal is an understandably bucket list country to visit and it really did not disappoint. Every single day on the trip was incredible and was a challenge but in a good way. I hope this covers what to expect on trail especially the insane number of steps and demonstrates what works and what doesn’t to make your trip extra special.