Recently I took the plunge and booked a Much Better Adventures (MBA) tour to the Caucasus mountains and loved every second of it.
First thing to know is that I chose Much Better Adventures off my own back so I haven’t received any money or freebies for writing this. I just want to provide my honest review on such a cool holiday.
Trek The Caucasus Mountains In Georgia Tour Overview
Georgia is a beautiful upcoming country to visit and companies like MBA are making it more and more accessible. With MBA there are multiple different styles of trips to the country to suit a wide variety of tastes.
You can choose to ride, cycle or hike through these mountains and surrounding areas with tours ranging from an easy rating to tough should you wish to tackle some summits. The tour I chose was predominantly hiking of course and was rated moderate.
With this tour (Trek the Caucasus Mountains in Georgia) your taken from the city of Kutaisi into the upper Svaneti region to tackle some of highlights of the Transcaucasian Trail which passes through the region. Apart from the first and last days there is very little driving time, maybe 30 minutes or so when the guest houses are a little out from the trail. Some days we did not drive at all but thru-hiked.
You will explore waterfalls, gorgeous mountain valleys and even a 2700m high pass on your journey through Mestia, Tsaldashi, Adishi, Lalkhori and Ushguli with various distances covering 10km to nearly 18km but every day had plenty of time for exploring and of course eating hearty Georgian food.
Day 1- Arrive in Kutaisi
Many people will head to Tbilisi when they explore Georgia and of course this is well worth seeing but Kutaisi is the smaller, but still the third largest city. You are free to arrive any time on this first day, which is ideal as you will likely need to make transfers if not travelling from Eastern Europe or fly direct to Tbilisi and get a taxi transfer across which is included.
Once in Kutaisi, there are a few things to do. If you are arriving late in the afternoon a short wander around will allow you to see the main sights. The highlight of which is the Bagrati Cathedral which our hotel was located right next to.
MBA tours do vary there hotels due to availability but we were lucky enough to stay in a lovely hotel with a balcony that overlooked the whole city and the cathedral. Once you have admired the cathedral and the views, a wonder around the town is also lovely. The glacial river is magnificent and the city part is full of sculpture. If you there for a little while then there is a botanical garden and Gelati Monastery and Motsameta monastery which are a little further out or perhaps you want to ride the gondolas up to an old soviet amusement park.
Grab some dinner whilst you’re in town before heading back up the steep cobbled streets to the hotel, maybe grab a drink at the hotel bar before settling down for the night. The hosts will message what time breakfast is on the WhatsApp chat for the morning.
Day 2- Into The Mountains
Rise at a reasonable time to some scrumptious breakfast as you meet your guides and any stragglers from your group who came in the night before hopping into the cars to begin your journey into the mountains.
The journey spans 6 hours across winding mountain roads but the guides cars are comfortable and the roads intially are well kept and straight. Once your into the mountains the roads feel the full force of the mountain weather and landslides are common. You will pass sections of roads that have fallen into the valleys with sometimes just a plastic barrier alerting the driver its now one lane. But the guides know these roads well and you make several pit stops.
One of these pit stops is for lunch. The meals provided are composed of many sharing dishes and there will nearly always be salad and khachapuri which is a lovely cheese bread. There is so much food that you will be well fuelled for the days ahead.
The highlight of the day though is the tour of Enguri Dam which is the second largest arched dam in the world and needless to say it is super impressive. There is also a visitors centre with a film with how important this dam is for supplying electricity to the local towns and villages. Past this stop you really are entering the mountains of the Svaneti region.
Once you arrive settle into your guesthouse. Where we stayed near Becho was surrounded by beautiful mountains and had its own little garden. It was quite remote here but it was possible to have a little evening stroll around along the roads between gathering again for a hearty dinner.
Day 3- Shdugra Waterfall
After a short hop in the car you start your first hike of the trip! This is a very good starting hike because it really sets the tone for the trip and gets you into it. In a way I found this one of the harder hikes and it really shouldn’t have been!
The route is up and back but there is significant elevation despite being a valley walk to get to view this magnificent waterfall surrounded by the Laila mountain range. At the end there is a short scramble should you feel up to it and you can sit on a ledge right beside the waterfall, sunbathing as you admire down the valley.
It’s a stunning walk along a glacial river with small lakes which you can swim in to cool off after your 650m accent of the base of Mount Ushba. Bear in mind it is absolutely freezing and the floor is super slippery with all the silt that’s built up but the cold water feels amazing afterwards!
If swimming isn’t your thing then you can sunbathe or grab a coffee (or cha cha, the local spirit!) admiring the beautiful peaks before hopping back into the car to collect luggage and off to Mestia.
In the afternoon you will have plenty of time to explore the town and if you are wanting snacks or suveniers from the Svaneti region this is the place. We staying in a lovely guesthouse and they sold their homemade Svaneti salt which tastes amazing. It is a mix of salt and local herbs, although if you do buy some it is very fragrant and will make the bag you keep it in smell delightfully of it!
Day 4- Mestia To Tsaldashi
First day of the through hiking and it did not disappoint. Wonder through the Svaneti towers, created as a show of wealth but used as an elaborate storage shed and for protection should you annoy the neighbours, these structures are unique to the area. You head out of town, overlooking the airport and if you’re lucky see a plane land or take off.
Today is a day for alpine meadows in the valley surrounded by snow capped peaks passing through many villages. Often there is a local cafe en route with tempting offerings of coffee or juice and the hospitality is amazing. You can grab more snacks here, albeit limited options.
It may have been the season I went in but lunch pretty much followed the same theme of bread, cheese, cucumber (a small whole one) and a whole tomato. If you’re not a fan of these then stocking up in Mestia is a good idea!
All of today was peaceful walking, and easy terrine too. Soft grassy slopes then onto some quiet roads into the pretty little town of Tsaldashi. This place was super cute. Lots of guesthouses as its a popular hiking route but also lovely walks around the village and up the surrouding hills.
Often in Georgia you will be approached by street dogs. Apparently many of them have homes, others are strays and almost all are pretty friendly and will happily follow you around, mainly for food, but some do like attention.
It’s a tough life being a dog in the mountains and dog fights do happen and many appear to be injured and there is not much you can do. It is discouraged by the guides to feed them as it encourages them to follow you too far along the trail and causes more problems with owners loosing their dogs. So whatever your feelings about them its best to leave them be or a quick fuss before moving on.
Day 5- Tsaldashi to Adishi
We woke up to the sunrise kissing the tops of the mountains before leaving our lovely gardened guest house. The guides continued to give us personal stories and little bits of wisdom about the plants and way of life up here as we started our 12km journey along the valley.
I went in September but can only image what the wildflower meadows would have been like in spring as they still had beautiful orange crocus style flowers dotted around. The path then climbed as we made our wade up to the ski resort.
The views were stunning and we stopped for a coffee at what appears to be a little take away cafe. The guides warned us it was expensive but this is all relative as though it was probably the most expensive coffee en route it was no different to prices we find the UK at approximately 10 Georgian lari for a very nice latte.
Lunch was a little further on and appeared to be quite a popular spot and for good reason. We walked the track up which presumably would be the ski slopes in the winter season and from the top the path became narrower and more trail like. Addmittedly by this point the lunches were getting more and more basic and the variation of Khachapuri, a whole tomato, whole mini cucumber and maybe an hard boiled egg was getting a bit boring, but it kept you going.
We were passing through wooded areas, babbling brooks and we were nearing the end of our hike with no clear village in sight and of course what goes up must come down. You will spot a cafe in the distance, well the music will let you know sooner too from this old wooden shack and from there you still need to get to the edge to see the village of Adishi, hidden away down the steep valley.
The village is picturesque in such a unique way. Rocky streets with cattle roaming free, crumbling buildings casting streaks of light and dark along the paths and of course the Svaneti towers in varying states of decay.
Despite the guest house still being built it was one of the friendliest. The dinner was hearty as the host cooked various meats on sticks over a BBQ and in true Georgian hospitality style the food kept coming. The wine the guides had brought for us was also brought out tonight.
There are also a few outdoor bars to frequent in the evening here. They may not have the finest offerings but they will have beer, wine and soft drink options although if you choose a fruit juice you may end up with the whole carton!
Day 6- Adishi to lalkhori
Another glorious morning to be in the mountains. After a hearty breakfast and loading our overnight bags into the truck we set off. It is worth waterproofing your overnight bag for this trip. Your luggage will be in the back of a pick up truck. The driver will cover it with a tarp but not worth testing that!
Today was the big day. The initial valley walk was a good vehicle track and pretty flat for Georgia. You started getting glimpses of what was to come. Herds of horses driven by their rider alongside you. Up ahead steep sides and glimpses of the glacier.
Right at the end of the valley you meet the horse owners. This is good news as you need to cross the river you have been following. With helmet on you mount your horse and off they trot across the river. The owners assist you with getting on and off and the if your nervous around horses like myself, the horses know what they are doing. Otherwise, when I went the river was shallow and other people were wading and paddling across in the freezing glacial melt.
Now begins the climb. Of course with many photo stops to catch your breath down the valley and towards the magnificent glacier. Each view point offered a completely unique perspective and the trail was lined with beautiful pink flowers just to make it feel even more magical.
Georgia rarely does switch backs so many of the paths just carve straight up the mountain. If its steep then it will just cut across the side the whole way but once you are up you are rewarded with pararamic views at the mountain pass which is a height of 2700m.
Across the 18km you will hike today much of the nearly 800m accent is to get up this mountain pass which is worth it. Should you choose to you can go right to the summit of this pass or choose to rest whilst the others get an extended lunch. If you made it up then the last little push is totally worth it as it’s only a slight uphill.
Admire the birds circling below you whilst you eat your predictable lunch in amongst the alpine flora before heading down the other side of the pass. This side offered some really interesting contrast between the green grass slopes with the snow capped peaks standing proudly behind.
The valley you then follow has been carved by a magnificent river with steep gorges and waterfalls clearing forest in their wake. After such a long day the sight of a cafe was greatly appreciated as the clouds darkened up above.
We were treated to a lovely guesthouse with a corridor around the whole upper floor so everyone could enjoy the views down the valley and over there bountiful garden. These windows came into full use when a lightning storm hit the village. Imagine the sound of rain on the roof and fork lightning lighting up the valley sides. The storm was so intense that the power was periodically knocked out so we enjoyed the storm in total darkness.
Day 7- Ushguli
With low clouds eclipsing the tips of the hills we hopped into the car today for our next leg of the journey to Ushguli. The highest village in the Svaneti region and a UNESCO world heritage site.
Fear not though as we still hiked today. The weather was a little greyer but we headed up to the glacier. This time you can get right up close (with safety limits) to the dirty ice. Hearing the sounds of it crack and grumble as rocks fall from its face.This is a popular trail and many stray dogs have learnt this so you will never be too far to fuss. Although tripping over them on the single file trail can be a bit of a balancing act.
This is an out and back walk but we then went to visit a beautiful Lamaria monastery perched on top of a hill in the shadow of Mount Shkhara. The tallest mountain in Georgia. Ladies, as per tradition and out of respect you need to cover your hair to go inside. The guides were happy with hoods and due to the drizzly weather we all had them but in full sunshine just something to bear in mind for today to wear respectful clothing.
We then were able to check into our hotel and dry off a little before some free time exploring the village. From where we were staying you could head downhill to the official UNESCO site. Narrow streets and nearly every house has a Svaneti tower in good condition emboding the spirit of the region.
Just up from there, perched on a hill is a stand along tower which has ladders and balconies allowing you to climb. Experiencing one of the towers this way is a must and the views of the Svaneti tower dotted villages down the valley, including a Birds Eye view of the UNESCO village is well worth the climb.
If you’re small like me the ladder rungs are huge steps so definitely recommend dragging along one of your newly made friends to give you a hand if you need it. I had to use my knee to get up onto the floors and they are full of years of dirt and dust. Don’t wear clean trousers for it!
For the rest of the afternoon explore the winding streets. There’s museums here, cafes, and even a cinema showing the only film made in the Svaneti language, although I do believe there was English subtitles. I spent the remainder of the day sat on the balcony with a fresh mint tea, hopeing the peak of Shkhara would make an appearance through the clouds.
Day 8- Back To Kutaisi
Today my patience payed off and right before we had to leave Mount Shkhara finally let her proud summit appear in a gap in the clouds. She is such a magnificent mountain even when draped in cotton clouds.
We started the drive early and headed a different and shorter route back to Kutaisi but not before stopping at a stunning road mountain pass. The cars struggled on the slippery mud of the rain the night before so we walked the last little bit to the church and bells. Snow capped moutains, glorious green hills and the quaint little chapel made for a magical spot.
We made good time on the way back, the drivers taking extra precautions along some sections which were prone to landslides, especially after the heavy rain the night prior. They safely got us to our next spot to stretch our legs and towards lunch. Back closer to town the food was more extravagant. The walnut paste back on the salad, more food options and we had a lovely spot perched on top of a garden room.
Once we climbed back down like always we were met with some opportunistic street dogs and some very cute puppies. Sadly though these ones were obviously infested with fleas. The others on this trip likely had pests as well but this one was really obvious.
The heavens opened as we reached Kutaisi and we all huddled into our hotel for a chill. On this occasion it was the same one as we had when we arrived which meant I went straight to enjoy the balcony overlooking the city. We then came together for some drinks (non alcoholic options were available) before heading out to a restaurant for dinner.
This place was huge. It had different event spaces dotted around the garden. We had a private room all to ourselves. The guides gave toasts and the food just kept on coming. Everything from the tradional walnut salad and Khachapuri to other dishes of fish and meats. Our guides had even organised a cake for dessert. It felt like a real celebratory send off.
To top it all off the rain had turned into a dramatic lightning storm so once we got back the group stayed together and watching the light show over the city.
Day 9- Back Home
The guides had began organising our transfers to the airport a few days before and this morning they will confirm it too but it’s a nice final farewell breakfast before everyone parts ways.
Depending on when you leave you have the option to relax or explore Kutaisi. If you are staying longer the guides can offer up some local tips and trips. The city itself is quite small, but there are areas to explore like I have mentioned above locally or further afield to the sulphur baths. I wouldn’t add any more than a day or two to your trip to explore here. Tbilisi is much larger and if you want longer to explore the culture then a few days there would be better and the guides will sort your transfer.
Conclusion
I adored this trip. The guides were friendly and interesting both with the excellent local knowledge and exciting hobbies they were both familiar with the landscape. The tour maximises the hiking with guesthouses en route for the majority of the days allowing you to follow some of the highlights of the Transcaucasian Trail.
The team planned everything well, look to improve it for the future such as the lunches and having food included made budgeting so much easier. All you paid for was additional drinks but there was often tea, water and soft drinks on the table anyway. The whole experience will leave you wanting to come back for more. To finish the trail. To explore the other regions of the country.
