Madeira really does live up to all the hype. It is without a doubt a stunning tropical island and only a few hours flight from the UK. How I have not made it there before I do not know but I am so glad I finally went and you should too!
Madeira is a tropical volcanic island which really does have it all. Towering mountains covered in lush forest which is so important it is a UNESCO world heritage site surrounded by a gorgeous coastline and abundant marine life. And as for those home comforts, relax with friendly hospitality and delicious local delicacies.
Now go and book your flights (not that you probably needed much convincing) and let’s get into planning the activities!
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Arriving in Madeira
Unless you arrive by cruise ship chances are you will arrive at Maderia Funchal Airport. This airport goes by a few names and is officially the Christian Ronaldo International Airport but don’t stress too much about this because there is only one airport on the island.
Don’t be surprised if you’re coming into your descent and can’t see land. The island appears very suddenly and if you have any cloud cover or sea mist then expect a landing that feels like your in Jurassic park. You only see the island as you come up alongside the forested slopes diving into the sea. It is beautiful and dramatic.
Once you have landed, there are a few ways to get into Funchal. You could choose the public buses to take you into Funchal. This is the cheapest option but of course the slowest.
I recommend booking a transfer in advance. They are available online to book such as through get your guide and are reasonably cheap as you pay per car, so if your in a group this could be just as cost effective and your dropped off right at your hotel in half the time.
Taxi and Uber are also available although I did have Uber recommended to me over taxi services as some can be a little creative with the pricing.
What you decide to do on the first day is very dependent on your arrival time, however, I would recommend exploring the streets of Funchal. Whether this is a walk along the coast, watching the crabs on the breakwater or through the cobbled streets it is worth it. Stop in any of the numerous restaurant’s for dinner and you won’t go wrong.
Day 1 In Madeira- Jeep Tour
Day one get up and at them! There are so many tours available from Funchal that you definitely wont be bored. A lot of the island tours overlap so take a detailed look into the itineraries and maps to ensure they do stop at the places you want to prioritise. You could do a small minibus tour of the west or east coast or like I did a jeep tour.
The great thing about these tours that they are usually in small groups, as you can only fit so many into a jeep! There were loads of scenic stop off points, perfect for photos as we made our way to the main destinations. The jeep ride comes with the perk of some off roading, and if you feel up to it they take the roof down and you can stand up on these parts!
This tour allowed us to stop at a levada (Portuguese irrigation channels), the Fanal forest, with its beautiful ancient trees, Porto Moniz a cute little town with natural sea pools and down to Sexial beach for a very scenic swim in the sea. All these places were amazing and well worth seeing.
My only advice for these sort of tours that if you are prone to travel sickness, the roads of Maderia are steep and winding so keeping your eye on the horizon when the roof is on is difficult. Also you do not get very long at the stops, it’s very much a whistle stop tour.
I wish I could have swam in the sea pools but if you choose to eat lunch then that’s not possible and you are advised to wait for the beach. The visit to the Fanal forest was far too short (20 minutes) to really explore the woodlands too, albeit that it is usually foggy so perhaps I was just lucky!
Our guide also informed us that they do not go to Sexial beach in the summer months due to the overcrowding so perhaps it is a seasonal variation. The guide was excellent but jeeps are not quiet cars so expect to not hear very well if you are at the back.
It is one of the longer tours to do but well worth it for a great overview of the island and one of the few that you have a guide to provide a good overview of the culture and history of Madeira.
It will feel like a long day so wrap up the day with some time by the pool before walking the streets of Funchal for a bite to eat.
Day 2 In Madeira- PR 9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde
With over 200 levadas it is a hikers paradise. Choose one of the many hiking options for today. The good news that many of the most well known (hopefully the best) hikes have many frequent transfer services to the start of the trail, and will pick you up again at the end. No need for the car to get into the mountains! Today I chose to do the PR 9- Levada do Caldeirão Verde.
This route is a 8.7km long route alongside a levada about a 40 minute transfer from Funchal. It is popular but for good reason. You are immersed in beautiful Laurissilva forest from the very start. Following the levada you really see the dramatic volcanic landscape open up and showing you tantalising glimpses down the valley.
At point this path is only half a metre wide with cliff like drops beyond the fencing into gorgeous valleys of forest. Continue further and you meet dramatic waterfalls straight onto the path and finally you are ducking to pass through narrow caves following the water.
Should you return the way you came, end the hike with a pit stop at the cafe. A lovely traditonal Maderia building with thatched roof. It is also worth a look at the surrounding gardens and farmyard animals.
I completely recommend this walk, just be prepared to get wet feet with the stream crossings and puddles even on a dry day. Also be prepared to have water drip on your head!
The Maderia government has also introduced a tourist fee for access to this hike. It is only 3€ per person and helps maintain the trails. You can pay the person checking tickets in cash or card or you can order online before you visit to get the QR code ticket if your phone signal allows.
Day 3 In Madeira- Funchal
You would be missing out if you didn’t allow at least one day to explore the city of Funchal. Enjoy the sea breeze as you walk along the promerarde spotting crabs on the breakwater or turn inland to view forts and palaces.
The cobbled streets are vibrant and full of character. Many even have beautiful artwork on their doorways. Be sure to check out the local market where the florists still wear traditional Maderia clothing. A very nice gelato shop is right outside too!
If that isn’t enough for you then head up to Monte. You can take the scenic cable car right from the beachfront and be up the mountain in under 10 minutes or simply catch the bus. This second option is a fraction of the cost but be sure to check the local bus times online as the printed times at the stops aren’t always the most up to date.
However you arrive, you are immediately met with panoramic views over Funchal and out to sea. Up in Monte there is loads to explore within itself. Head over to Monte Palace, a gorgeous tropical garden set into the mountainside that even comes with a contemporary art exhibition and flamingos!
You could spend several hours here exploring all the little paths and stopping at the Poncha bar served from a palheiro (traditional house with a thatched roof). Should you decide you need more gardens in your life there is another cable car in Monte taking you down to the smaller botanical gardens but this is all at an additional cost.
If you rather hike, walk past the cable cars and follow the path down the valley and over this impressive stone bridge before heading up to yet another view point. Simply walk back the way you came to return to Monte, just be prepared it is steep down and up.
You can continue along to visit Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte which translates to Church Of Our Lady Of The Mount and the surrounding area of parks. The view from this church is exquisitely framed by the steps leading up to it.
Should you choose to end your day with a thrill then take the Tobbogan back down the hillside. Flanked by men pushing the sled you will cover 2km of downhill in no time. You can also walk back down into the city. Head towards the church then follow the garden path. It does back track a little but it’s a lot nicer than on the roads especially as there is no pavement at the top. You can choose to take the road that literally goes straight down the mountain. Very easy to navigate but super hard on the knees as it is extremely steep. Views are worth it though.
Head back down and take a well desereved relaxing dinner in the cobbled streets before watching the sunset from your hotel balcony. Be ready for another fun filled day ahead.
Day 4 In Madeira- PR1 Vereda do Areeiro
If you want to be above the clouds this is the hike for you. This hike connects the two tallest points between Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo. Both of these mountains are over 1800m and you keep this elevation throughout the 7km hike. Expect steps, steep drops and a lot of exposure leading to some epic views.
Currently, as of early 2025 the route is partially closed (rumour has it that it should be reopening by summer 2025) so you can only do 1.2km out and back due to the wildfires but you still get stunning views making it worth a visit. Once you back at the car park spend some time exploring the trig point, cafe and information centre. Here you can learn a lot about the forests and wildlife, particularly petrels when I visited.
Whether you choose to get up to watch the sunrise or a later tour some tour operators are offering another hike PR3 Vereda do Burro. This 7.2km route takes you off the mountain down into the valleys towards Funchal. Compared to the crowds of Pico de Areeiro this is a much quieter route.
The initial decent is quite steep but otherwise it is an easy route with a few stream crossings. Luckily there were some well positioned rocks to help you across. You come down the valley through the clouds you can see building beneath and enter a mysterious world in the fog before coming out the other end into a valley.
This valley must have been hit by the wildfires, there were shrubs scattered between the charred stumps and fallen brachens. It was beautiful in its own way but also sad that such a large section of forest was gone. But you continue to follow the river down the valley until you reach a farm with some friendly donkeys.
The car park is for those who mountain bike, but don’t worry their paths are different to the hiking trails so you wont have to dodge out the way of adrenaline seekers. The PR3 officially ends by the pink house.
Technically, you can continue along PR 3.1 which brings you out of Monte if you decide to do a longer trip and skip the pick up. From Monte there are buses, cable cars or Uber to get you back but if you really want to walk all the way add another hour of steep decent to arrive back into Funchal. If you did walk from summit to see you would have lost over 1800m of elevation on PR3 and PR3.1. No mean feet on your knees!
Some good points to know is that even though much of PR1 was closed, they are still charging the 3€ to access the hike, but PR3 currently has no charge to use. Due to the higher altitude pack warm layers, especially if you are doing sunrise hike. Despite a sunny day, there was a good deal of wind chill and still ice at sections and that was at 9am. Expect to be cold but warm up fast on the steps and back to cold again along this hike. Thin adjustable layers are key.
Leaving Madeira
Sadly there will be a time where you have to say goodbye to Madeira. The easiest way to get back to the airport is to book a transfer. This is easily done through excursion apps and websites.
Don’t panic too much if they don’t reply immediately as you will hear from them the day before your flight home. On the return trip they will not hold a sign with your name outside the hotel so even if they do not ask best to lest them know the size of the group to help identify yourself. Outside large hotels can get very busy with loads of pick ups and drop offs, especially in the morning.
Otherwise it is possible to get the bus back to the airport for a few euros. As for the airport itself, everything ran smoothly. If you are into your airport shopping for last minute suveniours check out the shop at arrivals before you head past security. There are options past this point but they appeared to be different, especially the postcards weren’t available past security!
Once your hold luggage is checked in head up to the second level past security to the departure gates. Here there are plenty of options for food and drink, an outside area for smoking but you can watch the planes on the runway with the mountain backdrop and a shop focused on local Maderia and Portuguese suveniers. Perfect for those wanting to take home some local wine despite only having carry on luggage.
Staying Longer In Maderia?
You lucky duck. I wish I had more time to explore the island. There is so much more to do as well. Personally if I had more time I would allow more time exploring Funchal. You could spend a day in Monte and Funchal separately and enjoy a much calmer day. Perhaps with more time to enjoy some lazy mornings or a dip in the hotels pool.
If chilling isn’t your vibe then consider some of the other tours available on the island. You can do other jeep and minivan tours exploring the different cultures from the North and South side of the island through East and West tours visiting different areas and viewpoints. With such dramatic scenery there isn’t a poor choice of where to go.
Should you be more of a water baby consider getting yourself on many of the numerous whale watching trips along the coast. You will get to see the island in a whole new perspective and if you lucky enjoy the many marine creatures that make the island home. For the nature lovers amongst you, consider taking a day trip out to the Desertas Islands and learn about monk seal conservation on this nature reserve.
Of course, there are over 20 official hiking trails in Madeira ranging across the island. So there is more than enough to keep you busy. The main trails have many transfers going to them but if you do not have a car then consider getting an Uber to drop you off at the start and arrange pick up at the end for the more obscure ones.
Madeira is an island full of adventure. Mix up the activities with some mountain biking, climbing or even canyoning to keep the thrills high.
Why It’s Best Not To Drive Madeira
Yes having a car will give you ample freedom and the ring road around the island is easy to navigate. The downside is when you veer off this road. The guides that were driving was a nightmare in Madeira.
If you are not confident on hill starts, don’t even try to drive here. You get roads that are labelled at 33% gradients and they can be single track and two way traffic. Whilst I was there I witnessed many cars experience tire spins as they tried to do hill starts for a junction and that wasn’t even when the road was wet!
Then you also have small car parks near the tourist attractions, lots of traffic and people deciding to park on the roadside making what should be a two way road into a series of road blocks. One tour driver even admitted that they do not bother to come down to Sexial beach in the summer because of this and that you couldn’t get on the beach with the number of people. Luckily we did make it down on the shoulder season and I can see why it is so popular.
I would say make your trip more relaxing and let other people drive you. It may cost a bit more but they are experienced and it keeps the money going to local people.
The Local Cuisine
Where there is a coast there is seafood and Maderia does not disappoint. Be sure to try black scabbard fish at a local restaurant as it is a regional delicacy. It is commonly served with bannana and a passionfruit source which is divine. The fish itself is normally lightly battered so feels like you are eating a posh battered fish. It is a light fish that doesn’t taste too fishy for those who aren’t strong fish lovers.
Another common dish is espetada, otherwise known simply as meat on a stick. That description is very true to the name and looks like a giant skewer which is very theatrical. The marinated beef is cooked to perfection and goes down a treat.
As for drinks and snacks there are a few more things to try. Poncha is the local cocktail. Sugar cane rum or bandy mixed with honey, sugar and variety of fruit juices to take your fancy. Usually citrus based. Pair this with a local honey cake, made from sugar cane honey and you are all set with your local delicacy pit stop.
A fun fact about Maderia is that most of the food you eat will have been produced on the island as they export very little. The land on the island is known as green land. Local people can purchase this land and as they are not allowed to build on it they use it as a kind of allotment. The larger owners then sell the food they grow back to shops and markets. Keep an eye out as you travel around as you will see lots of banana and sugar cane plantations.
Conclusion
So there we have it. A fun packed itinerary for Madeira. When you get there be sure to fully immerse yourself in the local beauty and culture and you will return with a new appreciation for this small island and be ready to book your return trip. There is more than enough to do and the walkable nature of Funchal mixed with the easy accessibility of transfers means there is no need to stress about the car. Happy Hiking!
